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La Buena Vida

EScape

Journey to the Center of the World
A historical makeover has turned back the clock on Quito and
brought back some of its former resplendent glory.

For years Quito was known as the dodgy, dirty, dangerous city that visitors rushed through on their way to the Galapagos Islands. But after a seven-year, $200-million reconstruction project, Ecuador’s capital is opening itself up to a rising tide of visitors.
One of Latin America’s most beautiful and best-preserved colonial cities, Quito was the first city in the world to be named a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a place honeycombed with historic landmarks. Every street, plaza, and especially every church has its own unique mythology.
There’s no better place to start that Quito’s Old City. This neighborhood is a living museum, where beautifully restored colonial architecture presides grandly over the hustle and bustle of modern Ecuadorian life. Head for the Plaza de San Francisco, which has long been Quito’s cultural center. Even before the Spanish arrived, the site was home to a large, native market. Today, the Tianguez Cultural Center continues that tradition. The labyrinthine corridors of this museum-come-fair-trade market are a testament to Ecuador’s diversity. Native ceramics and beadwork share wall space with grimacing, African-influenced masks and Catholic icons.
Just above the market stands the Iglesia de San Francisco, a beautiful 16th century cathedral. Its sparkling white façade and golden interior were designed as a symbol of Spanish dominance. In a slightly more benign gesture, Franciscan missionaries also constructed the ornate fountain in the plaza’s center. It is fed from a 600-year-old Incan aqueduct, which still flows perfectly.
But perhaps the most interesting attraction in this historic plaza is the tiny Capilla de Cantuña, home to one of Quito’s most celebrated myths. The chapel is named after its indigenous builder, who is said to have sold his soul to the devil in return for its construction. While it might seem bizarre to sell your soul for a church, Cantuña had a plan. He demanded that the chapel be constructed perfectly, and added the stipulation that if a single stone was out of place the deal was off. As the chapel neared completion, Cantuña secretly stole one of the stones, and so escaped the consequences of his demonic dealings. Modern visitors to the chapel should look carefully at the walls and pillars and see if they can spot Cantuña’s missing stone.
Another of Quito’s most celebrated legends takes place at the nearby Recoleta de San Diego. This venerable 400-year-old monastery houses some of South America’s finest baroque murals and sculptures. One crucifix is particularly famous due to its association with a 17th century monk named Manuel de Almeida. It seems Father Manuel found the monastic life a bit dull. At night, while his brothers were asleep, Father Manuel would use the crucifix to hoist himself onto the roof in order to engage in sinful excursions. One night as he was climbing up the crucifix, the statue of Christ turned to him and demanded to know how long he planned to keep this up. “Just until I get back,” he replied as he scaled the wall for one last night of partying before returning to devote himself wholeheartedly to God’s work.
For those visitors still in need of evidence of Ecuadorian devotion, just look up from any point in the city to spot the gargantuan Virgin del Panecillo keeping watch. While locals quip that this enormous statue is the only virgin you’re likely to find in Quito, it is the city’s most iconic symbol and an easy way to keep your direction while navigating Quito’s winding alleyways.
Although the statue holds a commanding view over the city, you’ll find a much better view by riding up the city’s newly completed teleferiqo. This cablecar, the world’s second highest, hoists visitors more than 12,000 feet up the slope of Mount Pichincha. From this perspective you cannot only appreciate Quito’s amazing layout, but also the spectacular mountains that surround it. On a clear day, you can spot six different active volcanoes from the lookout.
With so much to see and do, it’s hardly surprising that Quito is enjoying a surge in tourism. And one of the most interesting outgrowths of the city’s newfound popularity has been the reopening of the Plaza Grande Hotel. Originally the mansion of conquistador Juan Díaz de Hidalgo, it’s now Quito’s finest luxury hotel, with a view directly into the Presidential Palace. It has hosted Venezuelan President Hugo Chávez. Unfortunately, the staff refused to confirm whether the outspoken socialist leader indulged in any of the minibar’s ample selection of American beers.
Although a stay in the $1,500/night Presidential Suite it a tad steep, the hotel’s bars and world-class restaurants come highly recommended. There are weekly performances of Latin music and dancing, and with the aid of a sympathetic receptionist, visitors might even be able to talk their way into a peek at the Presidential Suite. Rich tapestries and hand-carved mahogany furniture are just part of the sumptuous atmosphere. But whatever you do, don’t break anything—if President Chávez comes back there’ll be hell to pay.

Ecuador’sDiversity

While the Galapagos Islands are Ecuador’s most famous draw, there are plenty of other options for the traveler looking to expand his visit beyond the capital. One popular site to visit is the Mitad del Mundo, a colossal monument built on what a team of French scientists determined to be the middle of the world. Unfortunately they botched and the job. It turns out that the REAL equator is about a hundred yards away. Perhaps the government of Ecuador should have just asked the indigenous locals, who had it right all along.
Visitors in good physical condition might consider a trip up Mount Cotopaxi, the world’s highest active volcano. Although the summit is nearly 20,000 feet up, its smooth, conical shape means that even novice climbers can conquer it. Head out at midnight and you’ll be able to watch the sunrise on one of the most spectacular views imaginable.
And for wildlife lovers, a visit to Mindo is not to be missed. Just over two hours from Quito, this small town is an incredible bird-watching site. Hundreds of species can be found in the area, including the brilliant Andean Cock of the Rock. This bird is highly localized, and best seen in the mornings. Hummingbirds are active and can be seen throughout the day, if you listen for the telltale thumping of their wings. Mindo’s gardens, where hummingbird feeders have been set up, are a particularly dazzling experience as the tiny birds jet from one feeder to another.